Vegetarian food and / or gluten free in Florence / Firenze, Italy

Best we have eaten out ever in all our travels so far has been in Florence. We believe this is owed to the quality of locally organically produced Tuscan ingredients and their total passion for good food inspired by being exposed to so much of it – the bar is high. Amazingly good and you are not missing out on a thing being a celiac or vegetarian if you choose the right places. All staff were really friendly and professional and the one waiter who got a bit stressed as he was in a lunchtime whirl apologised. Rome was not bad for food but Sorrento in the South was dire and unforgivably so, therefore if you want to eat well stick to the North of Italy and make Tuscany your prime choice.

Getting to, parking and eating at Bologna Fiera for tradeshow

We were actually visiting for business including going to a tradeshow at Bologna Fiera where this is what we mustered up for Andrew (the hungry gluten free vegetarian). It was expensive and not very tasty considering the standard of food generally but then it was a canteen at a big convention centre. Costs €16 for the day to park there in case that is helpful to anyone and the motorway drive on toll roads between Florence and Bologna to the trade fair is pretty hairy with lots of bends, tunnels, lorries and drivers going so fast they cannot stay between the white painted lines.

OUR GLUTEN FREE HOTEL CHOICE IN FLORENCE

We stayed at a budget hotel on outskirts of town up a steep hill which was good for cancelling out the extra calories you consumed with your dessert! There’s also local buses close by. We chose L’Argentiere BnB because it had easy car parking included in the particular room deal we got and they did gluten free options for breakfast. Reviews were mixed so I think it depends what room you get. We had a lovely time there and everything worked as it should. We paid under €300 for 4 night BnB with parking included. Paid €16 city tax on top.

Breakfast report from my TripAdvisor review: “They bought in tons of gluten free stuff just for us – cantucci, bread to toast on their slowest toasters in the world, chocolate cake and biscuits. The breakfast everyone moans about did not look so tragic and given the price you are paying there is nothing to complain about. If hard boiled eggs ran out which they did they made more which could take 10 mins so therefore they are fresh unlike someone said. Ketchup and mayo would have helped as our breakfast was a bit dry. The juice was weird. No ham or cheese available but if you love those why not buy your own as grocery shopping in Florence is a delight! Plus it is cheaper than paying hundred Euros more for your room.”

Tourist tips for Florence

Most museums had queues but the sun was shining when we were in tourist mode so we didn’t really bother with them and the streets in the historic centre are a delight as well as the open air sculpture around Piazza Del Signori. In the weekday evening you can walk into Palazzo Vecchio without battling through crowds having sized up the copy of David outside. The sightseeing bus route around outside of town was not worth doing but the one that went to Fiesole (gorgeous etruscan town 9km out of Florence on a hill) was great getting you into more of that stunning Tuscan countryside with beautiful villas and views. The buses also take you up to Piazza Michaelangelo which is a must, then after taking in the scenery walk up to San Miniato al Monte a lovely church even for me who is not normally that taken with them, and behind it is a lovely very old cemetery open until 6pm where I marvelled at the carvings and tombs taking dozens of photos. I often made an effort to walk through gardens I saw on the map but often these were closed sadly. I really enjoyed the perfume shops and there’s a good one called Flor Firenze at Borgo S Croce 6 near Basilica di Santa Croce where not only can you buy perfume but make an appointment to have one created just for you with you choosing the ingredients. If in your party someone can eat wheat they should visit Gilli on Piazza della Repubblica where eating at the bar is the cheapest option and I had a lovely time doing so with something chocolaty on layers of pastry. Heaven! If only they would flex their gluten free baking muscle here.

FOOD SHOPS

Although we did not visit it we had read that a good shop for gluten free food supplies was Starbene  at Viale Spartaco Lavagnini, 2/R Firenze (North of the centre near Piazza della Libertà and not too far from the train station)

We always bought bananas and bottles of water (only 35c each) at the Conrad supermarket in Via del Melarancio 7/9 near the station between two Piazzas. This was a good cheap and deceptively large supermarket although not good for gluten free stuff.

All over Florence we saw lovely grocery shops and stalls.

GUIDE TO EATING GLUTEN FREE AND / OR VEGETARIAN IN FLORENCE (Firenze senza glutine)

Tips

Note in Florence there are two street numbering systems in place to be totally confusing to all so buildings are bestowed with two numbers. An r in the address means red (rosso)/brown numbers.

Lots of places are closed Sun/Mon so watch out for that too. We ate at HOSTARIA IL DESCO Sunday evening and CIRO & SON’S Monday evening.

Eating out in Florence is expensive we found so bring lots of money! Most places have a cover charge where you get bread and a freebie appetiser plus maybe a small glass of prosecco.

Bonus finds

RISTORANTE IL SANTO GRAAL Via Romana 70R (near Palazzo Pitti), 50125 Firenze, Tel. 055 2286533

Marta: We walked down into town from the hotel the evening we arrived and none of the restaurants en route that Saturday night were willing to feed a hungry gluten free vegetarian until that is we walked into here. The guy was so friendly and so helpful. The kitchen so careful. They took our bit of paper explaining what could and could not be eaten in Italian and kept hold of it to make sure. 10 out of 10 for effort but they did bring us normal bread basket (a waitress we had not spoke to) and we failed to usher it away quickly enough so bit of a waste. I had a lovely bit of steak with crispy leeks for €15 although I failed to manage to successfully order potatoes to go with it which would have cost extra. The free first course they brought out was a yummy potato based soup which really hit the spot. The house wine from Antinori Andrew found the best of the whole trip and only €4.50 a glass. He ate poached eggs on a delcious cheese sauce so good for protein (€9). Had he got fries with this it would have been a perfect meal. Excellent service in a lovely restaurant with lots of brickwork arches and not forgetting delicious modern Italian food. Menu is much bigger than that on the website by the way. If you are not gluten free their veggie burger would probably be good.

IL VEGETARIANO (not tried unfortunately as they were closed Sunday and had no opening hours on front of shutters but they emailed back prior to our trip they can do gluten free. Not found on celiac society list. Website says Tues to Fri lunch (12.30-14.30) and dinner (19.30-22.30).  Sat and Sun lunch. Mon closed. Read more about this popular place for veggie food on TripAdvisor)
Via delle Ruote, 30r, 50129 Florence, Italy

Best places for gluten free as found on Trip Advisor (TA and number is their rank) and also Italian celiac society list:

HOSTARIA IL DESCO – TA*48
Via delle Terme 23 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 294882
www.hostariaildesco.com
Closed on Monday evenings

Marta: best freshly baked gluten free bread ever found on this planet so far and double choc cake €5 very good too. Loved my bolognese pasta starter €9.50. Andrew had eggplant millefeuille layers €9. Mains were good but not off the chart in the same way – salad was so so. I had salmon at €14. Very very celiac friendly and huge menu with plenty of vegetarian dishes too.

IL DESCO BISTROT
Via Cavour 55 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 288330
Open for lunch only

Marta: this place caters for everyone and the guy running it is a vegetarian so you will find seitan and proper protein rich veggie stuff here as well as meat. They can do gluten free and understand it well. We had a table in the street which was nice as street does not have that much traffic given it leads to the cathedral. Open 12-3 for lunch only. Loved my gluten free pasta starter with white meat ragout €9.50. Andrew had the vegetarian platter special of the day for €12 and I stole his gluten full bruschetta as I avoid wheat eating it occasionally. Staff can get a little stressed in lunchtime hurly burly but their heart in the right place obsessing about perfect food from their farm!

CIRO & SON’S – TA*52
Ristorante e pizzeria
Via del Giglio 26/28 rosso – 50123 Firenze – Tel +39 055 289694
www.ciroandsons.com
Closed Sundays, Mondays at lunchtime; Open for lunch and dinner

Marta: must give 24 hr notice for gluten free pizza €10.50 which can be by email to info [at sign] ciroandsons.com and truly worth it for as other reviewers have said on Trip Advisor this is the best pizza place in the world gluten free or not. Grilled mixed veg €6.50 was amazing too. Homemade hazelnut ice cream €6 was to die for too. Lovely swanky place but which is all heart – I loved their family photos as you climb stairs to the toilets. Don’t let them upsell you to 2 glass bottle of wine as it will cost you 15 Euros whereas a glass of house wine was usually 5 euros elsewhere. I think unlike most places that open at 7pm for dinner you can eat earlier here. Round the corner heading to the train station is a Conrad supermarket where we could buy small bottles of water for just 35c.

FELLINI – TA*103
Via Ghibellina 164 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 2478896
www.ristorantefellini.it
Open for dinner only

Marta: Quite expensive and very small. Food is good and so is service – Andrew had pasta with mixed veg ragout €11 and I had pasta with lobster and sun-dried tomatoes €18. Ambience suitable for older people which it seemed to attract. Quirky decor and you can imagine Mussolini eating here. Only one type of gluten free bread in basket. Uninspiring gluten free dessert selection.

IL PORTALE – TA*188
Ristorante e pizzeria
Via Alamanni 29 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 212992
Open for lunch and dinner

Marta: not tried as further out to left of back of train station

More untried options from the list of gluten free restaurants in Florence recommended by the Coeliac Society of Italy (AIC):

AL TRANVAI
Piazza Tasso 14 rosso – Firenze – Tel  +39 055 225197
Closed Sundays and Monday lunch; Open for lunch and dinner

BACCA ROSSA
Via Ghibellina 46 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 240620
Closed Sundays, lunch by reservation only

CAMMILLO
Borgo San Jacopo 57 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 212427
Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays; Open for lunch and dinner

DA TITO I PECCATI DI GOLA
Ristorante e pizzeria
Via Baracca 149 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 416726
Open for lunch and dinner

DA TITO I SETTE PECCATI
Ristorante e pizzeria
Via T. Alderotti 87/a – Firenze – Tel +39 055 4360470
Open for lunch and dinner

DA TITO IL SESTO GIRONE
Ristorante e pizzeria
Via di Villamagna 77/a – Firenze – Tel +39 055 6530695
Open for dinner only

I’TOSCANO
Via Guelfa 70 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 215475
www.iltoscano.it
Closed: Tuesdays

I QUATTRO AMICI
Via Orti Oricellari 29 – Firenze – Tel +39 055 215413
Open for lunch and dinner

IL PALLAIO
Ristorante e pizzeria
Via Damiano Chiesa 3 – Firenze – Tel +39 055 679304
Open for lunch and dinner

IL POVERO PESCE
Via P.F. Calvi 8 – Firenze – Tel +39 055 671218
Open for lunch and dinner

LA GRATELLA
Via Guelfa 81 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 211292
Closed Sundays (July and August); Open for lunch and dinner

LO STRETTOIO
Via di Serpiolle 7 – Firenze – Tel 055 4250044
www.ristorantelostrettoio.com
Closed: Sunday evening and Monday

PIAZZA DEL VINO
Ristorante enoteca
Via della Torretta 18 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 671404
www.piazzadelvino.eu
Open for lunch and dinner

PIZZA MAN
Via del Sansovino 191 – Firenze – Tel +39 055 712738
Open daily for lunch and dinner, reservations required
Via Baracca 148 a/b – Firenze – Tel 055 4379931
Open for lunch Monday through Thursday, reservations required
www.pizzaman.it

THE CLUB HOUSE
Via de’ Ginori 6 rosso – Firenze – Tel +39 055 211427
www.theclubhouse.it
Open for lunch and dinner

HAPPY EATING!

Gluten free friendly restaurants we’ve eaten at in Poole who also have vegetarian GF options

The Guildhall Tavern in the centre of the old town part of Poole near the quay is a well recommended restaurant serving French food and specialising in seafood/fish. However dishes that can be made gluten free, of which there are many, are clearly marked on the menu. They even have a vegetarian section on their menu which is most unFrench and if you are a meat eater don’t worry as they have more choices than fish and vegetarian. We had a lovely meal there with enormous starters, lots of salad too and they even did gluten free bread for us to go with their delicious home marinated olives. The service is charming and helpful. We plan to bring the parents here again when they have a French themed evening.

Give them notice and they can do more gluten free options by arrangement like pancakes and lobster thermidor.

Guildhall Tavern Restaurant, 15 Market Street (on corner with New Street), Poole, Dorset, BH15 1NB, United Kingdom.

Telephone 01202 671717

Website with more details is http://www.guildhalltavern.co.uk

 

 

Gluten free friendly restaurants we’ve tried in Bournemouth who also have vegetarian GF options

We find the more upmarket the restaurant the more likely they are to be knowledgeable and flexible about gluten free, vegetarian or the two combined. Cheaper chains seem to have ready meals with mystery ingredients that go into a microwave and staff who don’t even know that sausages are made with breadcrumbs or that don’t realise croutons are still bread. Fortunately in Bournemouth we have some wonderful places to eat that although upmarket are exceptionally good value – L’Assiette always and the Edge is brilliant value at lunchtime. There are more budget options too.

L’Assiette

Number 1 gluten free and special diet friendly restaurant in Bournemouth is L’Assiette in East Southbourne, not far from the beach. Not only is the food wonderful but they really do make extreme efforts to accommodate you that we’ve not been lucky to experience elsewhere. Excellent service too. Book with notice and the amuse bouche and petits fours will also be made gluten free. They not only cater but come up with something extremely yummy in a generous portion. This is French cooking so don’t expect it to be heavy on the healthy side but heavy on a taste of heaven in every mouthful. A residential area so free easy local parking – otherwise there is a car park on the sea front.

141 Belle Vue Road (near the bed shop and local supermarket – if you are on the coast road parallel to it come out by the roundabout with the giant deckchair on it)
Southbourne
Dorset
BH6 3EN

01202 420537

See website for details – L’Assiette

 

The Edge Restaurant in Bournemouth with gluten free friendly dining

The Edge

This restaurant is on the top floor of a new apartment hotel on the West Cliff just up from the bottom of Alum Chine where there is a car park or park in the road. Go into the large foyer and take the door to your right which takes you to the lift. A very swanky place with beautiful views of the coast. When you book tell them about your dietary requirements and ask for a table with a view. I think the food here is excellent and ties in brilliance with L’Assiette. They will adapt their extensive menu to suit you and are very helpful. Dinner is rather pricey but lunchtimes are more affordable with light bites for much less than £10 that are really rather splendid and not necessarily that small.

4th Floor, 2 Studland Road, Alum Chine, Bournemouth BH4 8JA

01202 757007

See website for more details – The Edge Restaurant

 

Natural Bourne Grillers

What a great name! Go here for amazing meats but if you are veggie definitely don’t have the jacket potato or pasta. They now have veggie burgers which are okay. If you are a gluten free meat eater this simple looking place will delight your taste buds with great quality locally sourced cuts. Don’t let the uninspiring menu descriptions fool you. They just don’t know how to sell themselves. Amazingly affordable prices and you can bring your own bottle with no corkage charge whatsoever. They can do everything gluten free so save room for pudding!

274 Old Christchurch Road, Lansdowne, Bournemouth BH1 1PH

01202 290306

See website for more details and special offers – Natural Bourne Grillers

 

MORE TO COME

 

 

Gluten free restaurants in Madrid with vegetarian options plus tourist hints

We stayed for a few delightful days at the Ayre Gran Hotel Colon, Calle Pez Volador in Madrid which we thoroughly recommend. We got a good deal on it at booking.com. My review for it is on TripAdvisor (I’m ‘fly-me-to-the-spoon’) and includes the following notes about gluten free restaurants / vegetarian restaurants in Madrid plus some advice about what to do and getting around if you also stay at this hotel:

“Snacks and breakfast options:
There are two buildings and the second is further round to the back of the first and on the way you’ll find a hole in the wall tiny grocery shop where we bought two big bottles of water and a couple of bananas for just over a couple of Euros. Across the street are two cafes and one behind which are an alternative to your 16 euro hotel breakfast with a pincho de tortilla (Spanish omelette with potato) for 2, cafe con leche for 2 and freshly squeezed orange ‘zumo de naranja fresca’ 3.75. To the right of these is a block signed ‘estrella’ or star which houses a great local market selling foods. Keep on to the main street and across it you find a supermarket.”

Andrew enjoying his gluten free vegetarian meal at Barandales restaurant, Madrid

“Dinner near the hotel: To eat out I recommend going up the hill and turning left into Calle Ibiza. Lots of choice and after the Argentinian place turn right to explore Calle Menorca too where we ate in Barandales at no 33. Go at 9pm and you should not need to book as that’s the earliest the Madrilenos eat. A lovely meal but the potato skins are more what we would call potato peelings! It is typically Spanish so don’t expect carbs and veg with your main dish, therefore order a salad. They didn’t have a menu in English but will help you. A posh nosh place which we researched before as they are good with special diets – husband is celiac vegetarian who doesn’t eat fish and can’t eat any wheat etc. They even gave him gluten free freshly baked bread to start!
Also on the Madrid celiac list was Arroz y Arroz the rice emporium at Ibiza 25 but come Sunday night both were closed so we went round the corner left into Narvaez and across the road to find a wee Turkish place which was cheap at 8.50 for the house plate with a bit of everything which was the tastiest of my meals in Madrid. Turning right instead across the Narvaez road you see an ice cream shop.”

Madrid feels safe but do keep a firm hand on your valuables at all times – if you have a backpack twist and not the toggles so you can’t just unzip it. When I lived here every friend’s visit involved time in the Policia reporting a bag snatch or distraction robbery. On my first ever visit crossing the road in a crowd with my then boyfriend in busy Sol, someone unzipped the bag on my arm and got to my purse which I could never locate in there myself.

We really liked that we didn’t see any chavs, any hoodies (hot weather helps) and unlike London did not come across those with mental health issues … well until walking along Ibiza and there was a nutter singing abuse to the street but you will be pleased to know it was at the window behind the bars of a psychiatric clinic! This is testament to Spain’s excellent health system in my mind. In London they let them out to cause havoc in the community.

Eating in central Madrid: If anyone else is celiac or vegetarian or just enjoys nice food there are two great places to eat in town we recommend. Pizza Sana at Calle del Clavel 7 near Gran Via metro is open 1 to 11 pm and does a gluten free pizza option. English menu available. Go on a work day as the menu del dia makes it better value.

A fab veggie buffet with seats outside priced by weight (seaweed paella adds lots of weight be warned) is Viva la Vida at Calle de las Huertas 57 which is nearly opposite the Prado near metro Anton Martin. The girl there has excellent English.

Vegetarian buffet feast in central Madrid with good gluten free knowledge/options

If you walk up Huertas and follow that direction you will come across some squares like Plaza Santa Ana with cafes and more restaurants. When I lived in Madrid over two decades ago this was where I spent many evening hours. My favourite cafe for a gossip or to read/write was Cafe Central in little Plaza del Angel and is still there. Another cool place in the evenings after 10pm is the bars that tunnel under the Plaza Mayor on the West outside side of it and during the day also there is a wonderful food market with food bars that is just a foodie heaven.

Mercado de san Miguel - a food market with bars and cafes as well as scrumptiousness galore

Mercado del san Miguel - eating in

“Hotel Ayre Gran Colon in Madrid: We loved staying here. Quiet residential area with wide choice of local eateries in Calles Ibiza and Menorca, but easy for metro to centre or walk through amazing park. Fantastic modern room/bathroom. Great bed. Who needs an English TV channel when you have kisstv music channel? Only complaints are expensive breakfast and only one hour free all stay on basic wifi which does not allow you to download email. Signal was weak on 7th floor room so we used it in reception one afternoon siesta time. Note we were here 9-12 Sept and it was too hot to be out after 2pm some days and at 10pm it was 27 degrees C still so great for wearing summer clothes day and night, especially if like us you hail from the UK and the temperature hitting even 23 was a rarity this year.”

“Getting around:
Come out of Sainz Baranda metro (half an hour from the airport on the speedy metro trains but allow that much to walk to the metro stop too from your terminal – we bought ten tickets for two people at the machine in the airport metro as instructed by the girl in information. Machine didn’t like our credit cards so had to pay about 12 euros cash, note that includes a supplement for being at the airport which is far out) at the Calle Doctor Esquerdo entrance and the hotel is on the left five minutes walk down hill”

“Sight seeing on your doorstep:
For the Retiro you can walk up hill to turn left into Calle Ibiza and walk to the end to come in on a path that will take you alongside the boating lake. There’s great corners and gardens to explore all over but make sure you also see the Palacio Crystal behind the lakeside colonnade. We usually walked downhill and took a right into Nazaret to come in at the bottom and walk to the bottom of the Paseo de Prado. From here definitely go into Atocha train station as a tropical jungle complete with turtles is waiting to entertain you as well as those waiting for their train in this paradise. Reina Sofia Art Museum is near here too. The path that runs from the Retiro to the Atocha roundabout is lined with book sellers. There is the Prado museum too whose permanent collection of monumental sized old masterpieces is free Sundays from 5 to 8pm.”

Madrid shimmers beautifully at night – walk from Cibeles fountain (Metro Banco de Espana) up Alcala to Sol and into Plaza Major. We also enjoyed the area by the Palacio Real/royal palace (Metro Opera) and hoped to visit inside the castle but could not be bothered to queue. Hope you love Madrid too – pack you comfortable walking shoes!

Why it is great to be wheat free / gluten free in Bournemouth

It certainly isn’t great to be gluten free but we are so grateful to live in Southbourne in Bournemouth where we are fairly well catered for and brilliantly so when it comes to shopping.

In Southbourne high street, Southbourne Grove, are three places worthy of mention. First is Earth Foods which is a health food shop that caters brilliantly for food intolerances with chilled and freezer sections too. Up the road from Earth Foods is Whitmore Butchers who have a small gluten free selection and it includes baked goods. In the street opposite Somerfield/Co-op there is Pierre’s Patisserie who stock a freezer full of gluten free pies and sweet stuff. Andrew prefers the Baked to Taste pies from Pierre’s which are more like quiches as with Clive’s pies from Earth Foods he finds there is too much pastry for his liking. If you go for a stroll to the sea then on the cliff top you’ll find Cafe Riva who sell those delicious Honey Buns congo bars for £2.

If you fancy fish and chips it is a quick drive to Browns Fish and Chip shop in Somerford on the outskirts of Christchurch (near Sainsburys) as they offer gluten free batter – a bit greasy for our tastes but a real treat for a celiac. Andrew goes for onion rings and pea fritters. Be warned the portions are huge. They sell the Honey Buns congo bars too for £1.50.

Eating out is not so great for a gluten free vegetarian. In fact it is much less stressful eating out in Lanzarote!

Welcome to our musings and finds for the gluten free vegetarian

The Noo cooks up a storm even in a small kitchen in a rented cottage on our beloved Lanzarote. Why beloved? Because we can actually find something to eat. Being fed = happiness!

We’re Marta and Andrew (Noo) living in Bournemouth in the UK. I do the writing and Noo does most of the cooking. We both love the eating and would describe ourselves as foodies. He’s been a vegetarian for many years and end of last year was diagnosed with celiac disease. On average it takes 13 years to diagnose but as his mum is also a celiac he was tested for it straight away. I have been dairy free for a decade and wheat free for about a year since I worked out I am sensitive to it. I avoid eating meat for health reasons and am currently preparing to go on a healing diet which should help my endometriosis. I have been horrified to find out how rubbish soy is as every day for a decade have been having soy milk because dairy didn’t agree with me. Since ditching the soy milk I have already noticed a difference for the better and love the magic that we are what we eat. Sometimes we don’t have the full choice of what to eat and could find ourselves struggling to know what to eat so this blog is to help whether you are vegetarian or celiac / gluten free / wheat free or worse both which can be quite a challenge, especially if eating away from home.